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India’s Sacred Cow Now Threatens an $83 Billion Dairy Industry
Violence against cattle owners—in a Hindu-majority country under a populist government—resulted in 11 deaths last year.
Narendra Modi at an agricultural fair in 2013, the year
before he became prime minister. Groups demanding greater protections
for cows have been energized by the victory of Modi’s Hindu nationalist
BharatiyaJanata Party in national elections.
Photographer: /PTI Photo
by Anindya Upadhyay, Pratik Parija, Kanika Sood, and P R Sanjai
There’s a nursing home on the outskirts of New Delhi that
offers free food and lodging, a well-resourced hospital, and 300
attendants to cater to residents’ every need. Its clients are cows.
The
Shri Krishna Gaushala, a 37-acre (15-hectare) sanctuary with a duck
pond and a 150 million rupee ($2.4 million) annual budget, is one of
thousands of havens in India for abandoned, sick, and unproductive cows.
Their ranks have swelled since Prime Minister Narendra Modi’s
government moved in May to ban the sale of cattle destined for slaughter
at animal markets across the country.
Cows are considered sacred by many in India’s Hindu majority. The
victory of Modi’s Hindu nationalist Bharatiya Janata Party in 2014
national elections has emboldened groups seeking to protect the animals.
Since then, attacks on cattle traders have multiplied. Although India’s
Supreme Court blocked the May ban from taking effect, some
cow-protection groups sought to enforce it anyway. Many states already
have their own prohibitions on the slaughter of cattle, and some have
been tightened.
It’s
not just slaughterhouses and leather tanneries that are affected.
Deprived of the option of turning their spent milkers into hamburgers,
the farmers who make up India’s 5.3 trillion rupee dairy industry have
little incentive to expand their herds, which threatens government plans
to expand the milk supply.
“There
is no demand for cows in the cattle markets, and if we abandon them on
the road, they destroy our crops,” says Puranmasi Verma, 62, a dairy
farmer from Uttar Pradesh who owns two cows and three water buffaloes
but is switching over entirely to water buffaloes. “It’s a complete
loss.”
Even as Indians’ appetite for milk products has been
growing at an average annual rate of 4.3 percent for the past two
decades, problems are piling up for the owners of the country’s 70
million small-scale dairy farms, along with the the companies that buy
from them. Yogurt maker Danone SA
is closing a factory near Delhi and exiting India’s market for fresh
and long-life milk products to concentrate on its “best-performing”
nutrition and infant-formula brands, the Paris-based company said in a
Jan. 12 statement. A company representative declined further comment.
Sales of milk and dairy products are expected to climb to 10.05
trillion rupees by 2020, from 5.26 trillion rupees in 2015, according to
Sharad Gupta, editor and publisher of Dairy India, an industry
compendium. “When incomes rise, people spend more on dairy products,”
says Rattan Sagar Khanna, chairman of Kwality Ltd., a publicly traded
dairy wholesaler based in New Delhi, who sees demand for most dairy
products expanding “at double digits.”
Modi’s
government is almost halfway through a three-year national campaign to
bolster bovine productivity. The $126 million program aims to upgrade
the health and genetics of the herd and improve dairy-farm incomes. The
actions of some of the government’s supporters may be blunting the
effort.
Last year, 11 people died in attacks by so-called cow vigilantes—the deadliest year since IndiaSpend,
a data journalism website, began tracking the hate crimes in 2010. “On
suspicion that there might have been a slaughter of a cow, all these
people who are going about their business legitimately are at risk of
being targeted,” says Meenakshi Ganguly, South Asia director for Human
Rights Watch. Modi has publicly condemned the attacks.
Cow vigilantes prepare to set up a roadblock near Chandigarh on July 6, 2017.
Photographer: Cathal McNaughton/Reuters
Prohibitions
on cattle slaughter deprive farmers of more than 250 billion rupees of
annual income collectively and lead to 20 million abandoned cows a year,
according to D. John Chelladurai, dean of the Gandhi Research
Foundation in Jalgaon, Maharashtra. “Forget about slaughterhouse
transporters, even farmers can’t take their cows or bulls from one
village to the other,” says Verma, the farmer in Uttar Pradesh. The
state’s leadership vowed in November to jail anyone being cruel to cows,
a month before calling for a cow census and an expansion of cow sanctuaries, such as the one outside Delhi.
The
crackdown is driving more dairy farmers to swap their cows for water
buffaloes. The beasts already produce more than half of India’s milk and
are preferred by some farmers, in part because they tolerate heat
better. Still, their output of 5.2 kilograms of milk a day is about a
quarter less than what the country’s Holstein-cross cows average, and
it’s significantly less than the 28 kilograms yielded by American cows.
Because
buffalo milk has a higher fat content, it commands a higher price than
cow’s milk. “For the last three or four years, more farmers are shifting
towards buffalo milk for purely commercial reasons,” says R.S. Sodhi,
managing director of the Gujarat Cooperative Milk Marketing Federation
Ltd., India’s largest dairy processor.
Some 5,000 shelters have
opened nationwide since 2011 to house abandoned cows, according to Pavan
Pandit, national chairman of the cow-advocacy and protection
organization Bhartiya Gau Raksha Dal, who would prefer to see the aging
or injured animals remain on the farm. He says traditional beliefs about
cows are backed by science. “A cow purifies the environment of a place
where it sits. Cows release oxygen.” (They don’t; the animals do emit
methane, a greenhouse gas that contributes to global warming.)
Chhaganlal Gupta started the Shri Krishna Gaushala, a shelter for sick and abandoned cows, in 1995. It now houses 8,100 bovines.
Photographer: Anshika Varma for Bloomberg Businessweek
At the Shri Krishna Gaushala, the 8,100 bovine residents receive abundant feed and free veterinary care, thanks to the generosity
of the Hindu faithful and Modi’s government, which has lavished at
least 5.8 billion rupees on the refuges. “This is the government that
believes that ‘cow is our mother,’ ” says Chhaganlal Gupta, the
gaushala’s 81-year-old founder, while making the rounds between covered
pens in an electric, three-wheeled passenger cart. “If we don’t get
funding under this government, we won’t ever get funding.”